The Lives of Workers at the Tinkwood Hat Manufacturing Company

Figure 1: Map of Macau http://www.cia.gov/cia/publications/factbook/geos/mc.html

 

 

Figure 2: My hat made in Macau

Introduction

Miami University sells hundreds of baseball caps every year and students can be seen wearing them around campus all year long. When asked where their hat is from, students would typically reply with the name of the store, usually one of the three bookstores on campus. However, by looking at the tag on the inside the cap one will notice that Miami hats are imported from all over the world. There are many different styles and designs of hats and many different companies that make them. One of these companies is Twins Enterprise, Inc. Twins Enterprise has a factory in Macau called the Tinkwood Hat Manufacturing Company, and this is where my hat (Figure 2) was made. In this paper I attempt to portray the daily life of workers at the Tinkwood Hat Manufacturing Company by exploring their ethnicity, religion, socioeconomic status, and the political and economic history of the region they live in.

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Context of Macau

Macau is located in Eastern Asia, bordering the South China Sea and China to the North (Figure 1). On December 20, 1999 Macau was handed over from Portuguese colonial rule to become a Special Administrative Region of China. According to the Statistics and Census Service in Macau the region is only 27.3 square kilometers in area, which is 10.5 square miles or less than twice the size of Oxford , OH . The entire region consists of the Macau peninsula connected by two bridges to Taipa Island , which is then connected to Coloane Island by an isthmus. Macau is mainly an urban area with a population of over 450,000. The small land area and large population lead to a population density of over 16,300 per square kilometer, making the region very densely populated. The terrain is mostly flat and the region has a 41 km, or 25.5 mile coastline. Macau has a subtropical to temperate climate with an average temperature of 23.0°C, which is 73.4°F. In the spring and summer it is rainy and humid while in the winter and autumn months the relative humidity and rainfall are lower. Macau has a typhoon season from May to October, with most storms occurring from July to September.

When the Portuguese settled in Macau in the sixteenth century, it became the first European settlement in the Far East . The Portuguese obtained permission from the Chinese emperor to settle the area and “took advantage of their good relations with him by setting up a virtual monopoly on trade among China , Japan and Europe ” (Bailey 1998). In the next 442 years Macau had become “a prize jewel” and Portugal managed to maintain control over the region until handing it over to China in 1999 (Dolby 2003). On April 13, 1987 the Chinese and Portuguese governments signed a Joint Declaration stating that China would resume control over Macau on December 20, 1999 . On the determined date, President Jorge Sampaio officially returned Macau to China , ending colonialism in Asia . It was agreed that the Macau Special Administrative Region would “enjoy its current economic and social system for at least fifty years thereafter under the ‘one country, two systems' formula” of China (Porter 1993:7).

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Brand: Twins Enterprise

Twins Enterprise is based in Boston , Massachusetts . Boasting the “World's Largest Souvenir Store,” Twins Enterprise currently consists of wholesale offices in Boston, a four floor 250,000 square foot warehouse, a domestic cap manufacturing factory in Macau, as well as offices in New York and England (Twins Enterprise). The company was founded by twin brothers Arthur and Henry D'Angelo who came to America from Italy in 1939. Now, more than sixty years later, Twins Enterprise “stands as one of the most impressive sports merchandise operations in the world” (Twins Enterprise).

When the D'Angelo brothers arrived in the United States their first job was selling newspapers. They quickly moved on to flowers, and then later began selling pennants. In 1948 Arthur and Henry traveled on the Freedom Train, which carried an exhibit of documents such as the Constitution and Bill of Rights. Upon their return to Boston , they had made enough money on the trip selling copies of documents to set up pushcarts outside of Fenway Park . It was then that they began selling souvenirs for the Boston Red Sox. During the summer of 1967 the Red Sox made it to the World Series and the D'Angelo brothers received a huge increase in business. After that summer they were able to buy the building across from Fenway Park and turn it into The Souvenir Store. The D'Angelos had “finally hit the big time” and Twins Enterprise was born (Twins Enterprise).

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People

The city of Macau is often described as having a blended culture where East meets West. The region is predominantly Chinese, comprising ninety-five percent of the population. In addition to the strong influx of Chinese citizens there remain some Portuguese inhabitants, and approximately three percent of the population is a mix of Chinese and Portuguese descent, also known as Mecanese. The Mecanese inhabitants are the people who “identify not with China , or even with contemporary Portugal , but with Macau as a place” (Porter 1993:18). They are called “sons and daughters of the soil” and said to be “born in the land” (Maxwell 1999:90).

Kottak (2005:58) claims that “members of an ethnic group share certain beliefs, values, habits, customs, and norms because of their common background.” Pina-Cabral (2002:39) determined that there are three main factors that place an individual into the Mecanese ethnic group of society. The first characteristic is speaking the Portuguese language. Even though Macau Basic Law indicated that Portuguese could continue to be used once the territory was given back to China , the predominant language in Macau is Cantonese. In 1996 this dialect was spoken by 87.1% of the population, while Portuguese was only spoken by 1.8% (Bray & Koo 2004:222). English became the preferred second language, and Portuguese was mainly an important language of administration. The second characteristic of the Mecanese people is Catholicism. Buddhism is by far the dominant religion in Macau , practiced by 50% of its citizens, while Catholicism is distinctly less prominent in society, with only 15% practicing (CIA World Factbook). The third and final characteristic for the Mecanese is having a Eurasian appearance. Pina-Cabral (2002) notes that a person does not need to display all three of these characteristics in order to label themselves as Mecanese, but most of those who do have one or more. Barth explains that ethnicity exists “when people claim a certain identity for themselves and are defined by others as having that identity” (Kottak 2005:59). Those who associate themselves as Mecanese may alter their degree and level of association through time, but will always identify themselves with the ethnic group.

Macau is a well-developed city that is constantly growing. Businesses thrive and daily life in the city is active and vibrant. Porter (1996:127) describes a scene in which

Cars, motorcycles, trucks, bicycles, handcarts, and pedestrians move in every direction, some slowly and seemingly confused, others purposefully on business errands . . . In the market is an endless daily turnover of meat, fish, fruit, and vegetables; stalls and peddlers in the surrounding streets offering every kind of cheap clothes, toys, and trinkets; boutiques, stationery shops, pharmacies, and hardware stores selling household goods overflowing onto the sidewalk; and bakeries and cafes tempting the crowds with the morning's pastries.

 

In contrast to this light and energetic way of life, there is a dark side to the region of Macau which cannot be seen on the streets and in the markets. Those who experience this dismal way of life are the people who work to produce goods in factories; the workers who contribute to the “rapidly increased demand for labor generated by economic growth” (Gunn 1996:137).

Gunn (1996:138) states that during the second half of the 1960s and 1970s, the “textile and garment industry became the ‘engine for growth' for manufacturing in Macau ”. Macau 's economy relies heavily on exports and the manufacturing of textiles and garments facilitates the export economy. By the end of 1987 there were 740 garment factories in place in Macau , as well as 281 textile establishments. 73% of total exports came from the manufacturing sector of the economy, which also required 64% of the total labor force (Gunn 1996:139). The percentage of the labor force in manufacturing has, however, significantly decreased since then, being 18.3% in 2003 (Statistics and Census Service in Macau). Contributing to the current manufacturing industry in Macau is the Tinkwood Hat Manufacturing Company, where workers produce baseball caps for Twins Enterprise.

Gunn (1996:137) states that “social and labor conditions remained backward in Macau through the early industrialization phase” during the 1970s and 1980s. Now Macau 's manufacturing industry is “crossing the border to find cheaper labor” in China (Maxwell 1999:89). Migrant workers constitute about sixteen percent of the workforce in Macau (The Macau Research Group 2000:26). The Macau Research Group (2000:26) claims that these migrant workers “often work for less than half the wages paid to a local resident performing the same job.” Wages were lowered as much as possible in Macau as long as companies could find someone who was willing to work for such low pay. In addition, the “high percentage of imported labor erodes the bargaining power of local residents to improve working conditions and increase wages” (The Macau Research Group 2000:27). As a result of crossing the border for cheaper labor, wages and working conditions continue to decline for individuals in the workforce. A company will not satisfy a worker and give them higher wages when it knows it can find cheaper labor elsewhere.

Another result of the increase in migrant workers from China was the decline of housing conditions in Macau .   The great influx of Chinese into the Macau region in the mid-1900s put a tremendous strain on housing in the area and the government had no choice but to tolerate squatters (Edmonds 1989:xxxvi). By the 1970s Macau was in the midst of a severe housing crisis due to large increases in population that were tied to economic development. At this time, fourteen percent of Macau 's population lived in squatter housing, and ninety-nine percent of these squatters were Chinese immigrants (Edmonds 1989:xxxvi). Considering that companies were bringing in migrant workers by crossing the border into China to find cheaper labor, it can be implied that those living in squatter housing were most likely poor workers receiving low wages and their families.

The first labor law was not enacted in Macau until May 1984. This law provided for a maximum of a six-day work week, a minimum period of annual leave, rights to unions, as well as outlawing child labor. Local labor laws did not, however, establish a mandatory minimum wage. The Macau Research Group (2000:26) claims that average wages in Macau “generally provide a decent standard of living for a worker and family.” The question is then, what constitutes ‘decent'? The Macau Research Group (2000:26) also notes that “although the law provides for a 24-hour rest period for every 7 days of work, worker representatives report that workers frequently agree to work overtime to compensate for low wages.” If the wages truly were enough to make a living, workers would not have to work overtime to compensate and earn more money. This further upholds the idea that these workers are economically exploited and have a hard time simply making a living on the wages they receive.

The firecracker industry, a main staple for Macau many years ago, was “based upon cheap labor, mostly female but including juvenile” (Gunn 1996:137). The normal workday was eight hours and wages were as low as 2.50 to 10 patacas per day. Using the current exchange rate of eight patacas to one U.S. dollar, this would mean that these workers made about $0.31 to $1.25 per day. In comparison, tea shop workers made ten to fifty patacas per day while working fifteen hours a day, and shipyard carpenters made nine patacas a day for eight hours (Gunn 1996:137).

Using the generous labor wage of 10 patacas per day and six-day work weeks, it can be determined the a worker with this wage would make approximately 240 patacas a month. According to the Statistics and Census Service in Macau the median monthly earnings of the employed population in Macau in 2003 was 4,801 patacas (Statistics and Census Service in Macau ). Note the huge contrast in monthly earnings. Even when considering inflation, there is still a tremendous discrepancy between the median and a worker in the manufacturing sector. Supposing that a worker were to receive 50 patacas per day, their monthly earnings would still only be approximately 1200 patacas, or about one fourth of the median monthly earnings. When making a comparison with the average monthly household consumption expenditure of 11,026 in 2002/2003, these statistics become even more alarming. It can clearly be seen that “ Macau 's place in the international division of labor profited from this exploitation of labor especially in the garment industry,” and perhaps still does (Gunn 1996:137).

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Process

Trying to find out about the lives of the people who work at the Tinkwood Hat Manufacturing Company making hats for Twins Enterprise in Macau has been difficult. I was able to find a contact email address for the factory itself, as well as an email address for a customer service representative for Twins Enterprise. I emailed the factory twice explaining my situation and requesting information, and never heard back. I also did not hear back from the customer service representative for the company. I do not know if this is because they cannot provide me with the requested information, that they do not know the answers, that my emails did not go through for some reason, or just that they are simply ignoring my request for information. I suspect that the most likely situation is that my request is being ignored.

Despite not being able to contact an individual associated with Twins Enterprise or the Tinkwood Hat Manufacturing Company, I was still able to find a significant amount of information. I was able to find several websites, journals, and books to aid in my research of the people of Macau . These sources provided the basis for my research and I was able to find information on the people of Macau and relate it to workers at Twins Enterprise's Tinkwood Hat Manufacturing Company as best as I could.

The company that sold my hat was not helpful at all. I received no information from them, which was frustrating. I believe that consumers are entitled to know where products come from and what the circumstances are surrounding their production. I can understand why some companies would want to keep this information hidden. By not responding to requests for information, Twins Enterprise is not able to stifle the supposition that workers at the Tinkwood Hat Manufacturing Company have unfair working conditions.

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Conclusion

After conducting my research and noting some of my findings about labor in the manufacturing sector of Macau , I am beginning to wonder if the reason that no one is responding to my requests for information is that they are trying to hide something. In the past, workers in the manufacturing industry have clearly been exploited in Macau . Over the years, wages, working conditions, and even housing conditions have significantly declined for workers in the manufacturing industry. Perhaps Twins Enterprise and whoever runs their factory do not want consumers to know what is truly going on behind the walls of the Tinkwood Hat Manufacturing Company. The lives of the workers at the Tinkwood factory remain a mystery to me; however, by examining the lives of the inhabitants of the Macau Special Administrative Region I believe I have gained some insight into the lives of those who produced my hat. Aspects of ethnicity, religion, socioeconomic status, and history have been explored for the people of Macau, leaving me with a strong sense of their daily life. As a result, it is evident that those who work in the Tinkwood Hat Manufacturing Company to produce hats for Twins Enterprise go through many more economic struggles in their daily lives than the average citizen of Macau.

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Internet References Cited

• Bailey, Steven K.

  1998   Macau : East Meets West in 6.5 Square Miles. Electronic document, http://www.thingsasian.com/goto_article/article.781.html , accessed March 2, 2005 .

  This website is a collection of articles, facts, artwork, photographs and maps of various countries of Asia . This article was written by someone who has traveled to Macau .

• CIA World Factbook

  2005   Macau. Electronic document, http://www.cia.gov/cia/publications/factbook/geos/mc.html, accessed March 4, 2005.

  This website is maintained by the CIA, providing information and facts about Macau.

• Dolby, Ieuan

  2003   Macau by Day, Macau by Night. Electronic document,              http://www.thingsasian.com/goto_article/tell_story.2163.html, accessed March 2, 2005.

  This website is a collection of articles, facts, artwork, photographs and maps of various countries of Asia . This article was written by someone who has traveled to Macau.

• Statistics and Census Service in Macau

  n.d.   2004 Macau in Figures. Electronic document,                http://www.dsec.gov.mo/e_index.html, accessed March 4, 2005.

  This website is maintained by the Statistics and Census Service in Macau and it contains statistics about the economy, society, and demography of Macau.

• Twins Enterprise

  n.d.   About us. Electronic document, http://www.twinsenterprise.com/New/TwinsEnterprise10/AboutUs.html, accessed March 4, 2005 .

  This website is maintained by Twins Enterprise Inc., offering information about their products and the company itself.

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Peer-Reviewed References Cited

• Bray, Mark and Ramsey Koo

  2004   Postcolonial patterns and paradoxes: Language and Education in Hong Kong and Macao . Comparitive Education 40(2):215-239.

• Edmonds, Richard L.

  1989    Macau. Oxford, England: ABC-CLIO.

• Gunn, Geoffrey C.

  1996    Encountering Macau. Boulder, CO: Westview Press.

• Kottak, Conrad Phillip

  2005    Mirror for Humanity . Boston : McGraw Hill.

• Maxwell, Kenneth

  1999   Macao The Shadow Land . World Policy Journal 16(4):73-94.

• Pina-Cabral, João de

  2002    Between China and Europe. London: Continuum.

• Porter, Jonathan

  1993   The Transformation of Macau. Pacific Affairs 66(1):7-20.

• ___

  1996    Macau the Imaginary City. Boulder, CO: Westview Press.

• The Macau Research Group

  2000    A Strategic Assessment of Macau. Icon Group International.

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